Vang Viang
Backpackers heaven
05.01.2011 - 07.01.2011
25 °C
Vang Viang, Laos
We awoke early yesterday morning to do what happens every morning in cities and villages in Laos and is known as the morning alms. This is an offering of food to the monks for their daily food and is also to help with your good fortune and health. We awoke at 5:15 and had to unlock the hotel front door and gate which took much effort in our early sleepy state. Walked to the road near the temple the monks emerged from and were promptly greeted by a local woman who supplied us with sticky rice, banana leaves filled with something and bananas placed us in a good spot on a rattan matt and showed us how to offer the alms. At 6am around fifty or more monks aged from about 70 to 8 carrying brass containers walked by us as we handed out our offerings. This was finished in the matter of minutes and after paying the woman for our offerings( probably enough to feed her family for the month) we sat and had some delicious Lao coffee along wig our baguette and fried eggs.
After this we packed and got ready for our departure of luang Prabang, and boarded into two minivans and set out onto our 167km drive. Now you you are all thinking, that downtown sound very far...and well you are right it isn't in canada withhold amazing big well designed roads. But this trek they told us would take around 6 hrs. We soon found out why, this highway was actually closed for many years as it was deemed too dangerous for travel...it had a 'curve ahead' sigh about every 200 meters ( it would have been easier to have a sign for 'straight section ahead' as there were almost none), went straight up and over mountain ranges, was not very wide, it was shared by rather large transport trucks and buses and it drove through at least 100 small villages like no other I have seen. We stopped to walk through one of these villages and saw their daily lives in action, they survived by growing or raising their own food. Chickens, pigs, cows, dogs, ducks, geese and cats all roamed around in harmony. As well did the children who from a small age were left to run around the village with speeding vehicles zipping passed them and all the animals, children and villagers would abruptly step aside as horns honked at the in warning of impending death by auto. There homes are made by nothing more than thin bamboo walls and were only feet away from roadway. There was tobacco being cut and dried, brooms being made, gardens being tended to, Ginger root being turned into tea, clothing drying on trees... All of which again gave me a feeling of great appreciation for our fortunate lives. Don't get me wrong they adorned smiles and all would say hello as we walked by and they seemed happy but they had very little and utilized every square inch of land in a resourceful way and it seemed they are all working to keep the village sustainable.
After a few more full 180 degree turns, close calls on passing attempts by our focused driver, along with a lunch break and another pitstop we made it to vang Viang...it is a complete contrast from where we just came and we soon realized we were in a true back packers world. Everywhere you looked there were shirtless drunk and stoned travelers in their twenties, hooting and hollering with spray painted backs and faces. Vang Viang is known as a place you will both love and hate and although I didn't have any hate I understand why this is not a place for everyone. The love part however, is quite obvious, if you can look past the mayhem of the party goers the stunning beautiful into which we are surround is mind blowing. The mountains are tall with flat faces covered in trees and vines top to bottom. The rivers are clean and blue and there are many outdoor activities to keep everyone occupied. The mountains offer many mountain climbing routes, many of these are multi-pitch, also deep within lies some of Laos biggest caves. We did a light hike up to one which had stairs to approximately half way up a mountain. Inside the cave stretched for hundreds of feet twisting and turning amongst stalactites and stalagmites the size of volkswagens that sparkled as light struck them. At some points they were around 50 feet from the bottom to the top but have been made easy to tour in the past 8 years due to a large tourist interest. Concrete pathways and lighting was set up within and you could see they had future expansion planned.
Our afternoon than turned to the water activity of a much more relaxed fashion. We rented tubes and a tuk tuk that dropped us off up river in the most private commercialized part of Laos We had seen. Actually it would be the equivalent of floating down the elbow river, with bamboo bars all along the banks. And each bar has the loudest music competing with the neighbors and each had either a Tarzan swing or zip line to dump you back In. There were guys in these bars that would throw everyone a rope n hopes to fish them I to their bar for drinks. Most of them offered a free joint or hash brownie or magic mushrooms with the purchase of a whiskey bucket and all served free shots for the ladies. Needless to say this may have been the day I drank less than any other in order to keep my wits about me. Although it was chaos it was incredible to see and a lot of fun. The best part is where you actually are... The most amazing mountains all towered around us while we floated down the warm clean water for close to four hours.
We finished off our day at a river side bungalow restaurant, watching the night sky turn dark and than went for a foot and leg massage.
Right now we are on a public bus traveling south to our final destination I Laos, the Capitol city of Vientiane. This road isn't half as twisty and we are now out of the steep mountain ranges but the bus is slow and the driver us honking continually for both warnings to the small children and dogs playing on the highway but also for letting them know the bus is coming so get ready to jump on as there are no real stops.
Also, we had our two youngest travelers in our group leave us this mourning. Amy and Liam both decided that the fun filled town was made for them and are staying on there for a full week. We also had 3 other in our group were I'll yesterday and spent the day either in bed or trying to release the alien inside them. This is an area that unbeknownst to me I have for the first time ever in my life not suffered any issues??? But again we are thankful for our good fortunes and maybe our good karma is paying off at the right times.
Until next time - Sabaidee
Posted by Evanda 08.01.2011 23:55 Archived in Laos Comments (1)

